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Crack a Safe's Combination with a Robotic Auto Dialer - Part 4

38

2023-06-29 | By Zach Hipps

License: See Original Project Test Equipment

I've been working on this safe cracking robot project for over 6 months, and there have ‎been lots of ups and downs. But there's been a huge development that could ‎potentially derail this whole project. I’m moving across the country, and this safe needs ‎to stay here. One way or another, I have to open this safe in the next 5 days!‎

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After seeing part 3 of this series, my friend Jonathan found a safe-cracking forum post ‎showing how someone manually cracked this same model of safe. The forum post ‎assumed that I had some basic knowledge of safe manipulation, so some of the ‎terminology went over my head. But I understand the mechanics of safe locks well ‎enough that I got the broad strokes. The first thing the forum post suggested I use was ‎a dial indicator. This is a machinist tool that measures very small distances and ‎dimensions. I happened to have one already, so I placed it up against the handle using ‎a magnet. I can use the dial indicator to measure how far the handle moves as I’m ‎trying a combination. The reason I need to be able to measure the handle movement ‎has to do with false gates. The combination has 3 wheels that each have a deep slot. ‎These are the three “true” gates that let the fence (deadbolt) slide into place and unlock ‎the safe. Each wheel also has shallow slots called “false” gates. These false gates let ‎the fence start to slide into place, but not enough to open the safe. If I try to open the ‎handle on a combination that has one or more gates (whether they’re true or false) the ‎dial indicator will show more movement compared to a combination without any gates. I ‎cycled through and found all the gates for all three wheels. And better yet, I had a page ‎full of measurements showing which numbers allowed the handle to move the ‎furthest. These were the most promising numbers and gave me a couple of ‎combinations to try. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any luck.‎

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At this point in the project, I’m running out of time and things to try. I need to start ‎packing up my office for my move, so I invited my brother-in-law (the owner of the safe) ‎Levy over to discuss some options. He was ready to take an angle grinder to the back ‎of the safe to get inside, but I still had one more trick up my sleeve. I found a small ‎borescope camera that can be used to see inside small openings. Levy gave me the ‎go-ahead to drill a ¼” hole into the front face of the safe near the combination dial. If I ‎could drill a hole in the right spot and push the camera through, I would be able to see ‎all three wheels and the fence deadbolt. My plan was to try to align the wheels visually ‎using the small camera. As I drilled, a lot of fine dust was coming out of the hole, which ‎is the refractory cement used for fireproofing the safe. I was able to get through the ‎metal door and refractory cement with relative ease. Now it was time to push the ‎camera through. I was able to push through the hole I’d drilled, but I soon hit the inner ‎felt backing material of the safe. I needed to find a way to bend the camera at a 90-‎degree angle so I could see the wheel pack. Fortunately, I was able to achieve that ‎bend by putting more force on the camera cable as it pushed against the felt backing. It ‎slid free and made the bend, revealing (to our shock and excitement!) the wheel pack! ‎

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At this point, Levy and I were feeling absolutely pumped! We started cheering and ‎giving each other high fives and hugs. However, we weren’t done. We were so full of ‎adrenaline we took a few breaths to calm ourselves down. This next part would take ‎steady hands, so we couldn’t let all the excitement jeopardize the mission when we ‎were so close to our goal. I carefully moved the camera into position and soon found a ‎large piece of sheet metal that looked suspiciously like the fence that slides into the ‎gates. We let out another cheer when I confirmed this suspicion by jiggling the handle ‎back and forth! Now I needed to find a way to hold the camera cable in place to steady ‎our view. Levy suggested masking tape, but I had some poster putty close by that ‎solved the problem even better. I wrapped the putty around the cable and fastened it to ‎the opening I had drilled. This stabilized the camera and gave us a perfect view of the ‎fence and wheel pack! My heart was pounding at this point. I had worked for months ‎on opening this safe, and I was just moments away from victory! I slowly moved the first ‎wheel into place passing several false gates. The true gate was easily identifiable ‎because it was 10x deeper than the false gates. I started to move the dial for the ‎second number, but my heart skipped a beat when I realized I had turned the dial the ‎wrong way! This shifted the first wheel slightly. After a moment of inspection, I was ‎confident that it would still be close enough to not interfere with the fence sliding into ‎place. I continued turning the dial to reach the second true gate. This was it; I was in ‎the home stretch! I turned the dial to its final position, and I could see all three true ‎gates were aligned and the handle turned completely and fell into place! Success! ‎Levy and I let out a series of yells and cheers, and because it was late at night, ‎probably woke the whole neighborhood! At last, we had opened his safe! ‎

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I gave Levy the chance to clear out his things before we started disassembling the ‎inner felt backing. Removing this large flat material revealed the inner workings of the ‎safe. We no longer needed the camera because we had a direct view of the wheel ‎pack and the fence. We studied the wheels and confirmed (several times) we had the ‎correct combination before closing the safe and trying again. I wanted to know why my ‎auto-dialing robot was unable to open the safe, and it turns out that I had dialed the ‎right combination, but my handle servo wasn’t strong enough to turn the handle far ‎enough to trigger my limit switch. I tried making several adjustments but wasn’t ‎successful. I partially blame the cheap construction quality of this particular safe. The ‎handle was very hard to open and bound up very easily. I’m sure if I spent a little more ‎time on this project, I could have gotten it to work, but I have run out of time because of ‎my impending move. Maybe someday I’ll get my hands on another safe and refine my ‎design so that I can open any safe that comes my way. In the meantime, I jokingly told ‎Levy that if he ever has another safe that he needs open, do NOT call me!‎

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Mfr Part # ET16
BORESCOPE FOR ANDROID DEVICES
Klein Tools, Inc.
$370.77
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Mfr Part # 860S
SCOTCH REMOVABLE MOUNTING PUTTY
3M
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